Non-Slip Mono Loop
Creates a fixed-size non-slip loop at the terminal so lures swing freely without cinching the eye.
Intermediate · Monofilament / Fluorocarbon
Connection card
Non-Slip Mono Loop
For line → lure, line → hook, line → loop (fixed end loop).
Overhand in the standing line, tag through hardware and back, wraps, leaving a loop that cannot close.
This card does not say how strong the knot is. A retention figure comes from a bench, in one material, at one diameter, tied by somebody who ties it all day — and the line in your hand is none of those. What it does tell you is whether the thing you have just tied is the thing the record describes.
What this plate is telling you
Creates a fixed-size non-slip loop at the terminal so lures swing freely without cinching the eye.
Save this as a picture and it works with a dead signal and a nearly dead battery, which is when a joint is most often tied badly. The rest of this page — the steps, the seating sequence, the failure modes and the bench — is for the evening before.
Before you start
- ·Tie the overhand about 25 cm (10 in) from the end, so there is tag for the turns and both passes through the overhand.
- ·Set the loop size at the end, while the turns are still loose. Once the knot is tightened the loop size is fixed.
- ·Match the turns to the line: about 5 on mid-weight line, up to 7 on light line, and as few as 2 on very heavy line.
Step 1 of 4 · move 1 of 1. Tie a loose overhand in the line, then push the tag through the eye
swipe to step
01.1
Tie a loose overhand in the line, then push the tag through the eye
- Hold:
- Left hand holds the overhand open, well up from the end of the line
- Move:
- Right hand feeds the tag end through the eye of the lure
You should now see: An open overhand in the line, the lure on the tag below it, and a long tag past the eye.
Tie a loose overhand knot in the line about 25 cm (10 in) from the end, then pass the tag end through the eye of the lure or hook.
An open overhand knot in the line, the lure hanging on the tag below it, and a long tag past the eye.
Pulling the overhand snug while handling the lure. A closed overhand will not let the tag back through at the next step.
Fix: Work the overhand open with a fingertip until the tag can pass through it easily.
Why: The overhand is where the tag enters twice, once at step 2 and again after the turns. It stays loose until the final pull draws it down against the turns.
arrow keys work
Tying procedure — Non-Slip Mono Loop
Step 01 / 4
Tie a loose overhand knot in the line about 25 cm (10 in) from the end, then pass the tag end through the eye of the lure or hook.
You should now see: An open overhand knot in the line, the lure hanging on the tag below it, and a long tag past the eye.
If it goes wrong: Pulling the overhand snug while handling the lure. A closed overhand will not let the tag back through at the next step.
Fix: Work the overhand open with a fingertip until the tag can pass through it easily.
Why: The overhand is where the tag enters twice, once at step 2 and again after the turns. It stays loose until the final pull draws it down against the turns.
1Loose overhand2Tag through the eyeStep 1 of 4 · move 1 of 1
Tie a loose overhand in the line, then push the tag through the eye
Hold: Left hand holds the overhand open, well up from the end of the line. Move: Right hand feeds the tag end through the eye of the lure.
You should now see: An open overhand in the line, the lure on the tag below it, and a long tag past the eye.
Step 02 / 4
Bring the tag end back through the loop of the overhand knot, so the lure hangs in a loop of line below it.
You should now see: The lure hanging in a loop below the overhand, with the tag coming out of the overhand beside the standing line.
If it goes wrong: Running the tag past the overhand instead of through it. Nothing then holds the lure loop, and it slides shut on the eye.
Fix: Follow the tag from the eye with a finger. If it does not pass through the overhand, pull it back and thread it through.
Why: The overhand works as a collar. The tag passes through it here and again after the turns, so when the overhand closes it holds the tag at both ends of the turns.
1Back through the overhand2Loop to the lureStep 2 of 4 · move 1 of 1
Bring the tag back through the overhand, the same way it came out
Hold: Left hand keeps the overhand open. Move: Right hand threads the tag back through the overhand, beside the line to the eye.
You should now see: The lure hanging in a loop below the overhand, with the tag coming out of the overhand beside the standing line.
Step 03 / 4
Wrap the tag end around the standing line, working away from the overhand. Use about 5 turns on mid-weight line, up to 7 on light line and as few as 2 on very heavy line.
You should now see: An even row of turns on the standing line above the overhand, with the tag end free at the far end of the row.
If it goes wrong: Turns crossing over each other or bunching, seen as a lump in the row. On fine line it is also easy to lose count and wrap too few.
Fix: Unwind back to the overhand and wrap again, counting out loud and laying each turn beside the last.
Why: Stiff heavy line cannot close down around many turns, while thin light line needs more turns to build enough grip. That is why the count drops as line weight goes up.
1Five turns round the standing lineStep 3 of 4 · move 1 of 1
Wrap the tag round the standing line five times, working away from the overhand
Hold: Left hand pinches the overhand and the loop together. Move: Right hand turns the tag round the standing line, one even turn at a time.
You should now see: An even row of five turns on the standing line beside the overhand, with the tag end free at the far end.
Step 04 / 4
Pass the tag back through the overhand from the side it came out of before. Set the loop size, wet the knot, pull the tag to snug the turns, then pull the loop and standing line apart and trim.
You should now see: A compact knot above an open loop of the size you set, the lure swinging freely in the loop, and a short tag.
If it goes wrong: Bringing the tag back through the overhand from the wrong side, or pulling the standing line hard before the turns are snug. The loop shrinks toward the eye as you tighten.
Fix: If the loop has closed or come out too small, cut the knot off and tie it again, setting the loop size while the turns are still loose.
Why: The loop size can only be changed while the turns are loose. NetKnots draws the turns together with a slow pull on the tag first, then seats the knot by pulling the loop and standing line apart.
1Back through the overhandStep 4 of 4 · move 1 of 2
Pass the tag back through the overhand from the side it came out of
Hold: Left hand keeps the turns from unwinding. Move: Right hand brings the tag back and threads it through the overhand beside the loop.
Step 4 of 4 · move 2 of 2
Set the loop size, wet the knot, pull the tag, then pull loop and line apart
Hold: Left hand holds the lure, keeping the loop the size you want. Move: Right hand pulls the tag to snug the turns, then pulls the standing line.
You should now see: A compact knot above an open loop of the size you set, the lure swinging freely, and a short tag.
Watch the tie
How to tie a Non-Slip Loop KnotFishing with Nat · Opens on YouTubeExternal video from a creator we follow — not produced by us. Nothing on this page loads from YouTube until you follow the link.
Seating sequence — where failures are born
The step list compresses the finish. Run these phases in order, one at a time.
01 Moisten
Wet the structure before any load reaches it.
Zero. Nothing tightens yet.
02 Load
Take up slack slowly until the wraps begin to gather.
Light and even — both ends moving together.
03 Dress
Watch the wraps stack in order; stop and back off if any cross.
Hold, do not pull. Correction happens here or not at all.
04 Set
One continuous pull to full seat — no sawing, no jerks.
Firm, single direction, standing line against the terminal end.
05 Trim
Cut the tag square, leaving a short stub proud of the knot.
None. Never trim under load.
Finished structure — what correct looks like
Drawn from a rope model of this knot: which strand passes over which comes from where the rope actually lies.
- ·Open non-slip loop with neat wrap barrel above loop
- ·Loop holds size; barrel locked
- ·Tag through overhand then seated
- ·Parallel wraps on standing
Verify before you load it
Every line is pass or fail. One fail means retie — do not load a knot you argued with.
- 01Open non-slip loop with neat wrap barrel above loop
- 02Loop holds size; barrel locked
- 03Tag through overhand then seated
- 04Parallel wraps on standing
- 05No crossed wraps
- 06Non-slip locked overhand system
Field notes — dark, cold, gloves
- ·Retie by feel first, light second — the seat is a tactile event, not a visual one.
- ·Gloves off for the dress phase. Fabric hides a crossing wrap.
- ·Wrong twice in a row means the material or the hardware is fighting you. Change one, not your technique.
Non-Slip Mono Loop — finished-state checks, on the shared reference layout
Non-Slip Mono Loop — construction sequence
When this family fails, it fails as these. The recovered end still outranks the name.
Non-Slip Mono Loop — what fails and what to do
A loop that stays the size you made, with a return that cannot cinch.
- !Loop cinched around the hardware — action is dead
- !Return path reversed, so it becomes a slip loop
- !Fluoro in a lock that only behaves on mono
- !Tag brought back through the overhand from the wrong side
- !Tag not passed through the overhand, so the loop slides shut on the eye
- !Standing line pulled before the turns are snug, closing the loop toward the eye
- !Too few turns on light line to build enough grip
Too few wraps on light line
The loop walks down and becomes a noose
Wrap friction above the overhand is what holds loop size · step 03
Loop cinched closed while seating
Free-swing is gone and the noose can cut
Seat the wraps without shrinking the overhand loop · step 04
Tag missed the overhand
This is a slip loop, not a non-slip
The tag path through the overhand is the lock · step 02
Loop cinches closed
Check
- ?Loop holds under moderate pull
Then
- →Retie carefully
- →Compare to diagram
Loop size shrinks under a firm pull test.
Check
- ?Look for: Loop size shrinks under a firm pull test.
Then
- →Retie holding loop size while seating; verify return path.
Wraps bunch or reverse during final draw.
Check
- ?Look for: Wraps bunch or reverse during final draw.
Then
- →Wet, keep wraps ordered, draw steadily.
Stiff fluoro kinks or refuses to seat cleanly.
Check
- ?Look for: Stiff fluoro kinks or refuses to seat cleanly.
Then
- →Use a fluoro-appropriate loop variant or different terminal strategy.
Loop used on a lure that needs a snug eye seat.
Check
- ?Look for: Loop used on a lure that needs a snug eye seat.
Then
- →Switch to Palomar/Uni/Clinch family for pinned terminals.
Finished check failed — loop shrinks or collapses under a pull test
Check
- ?loop holds the intended size after seating
- ?wraps form cleanly around the standing line
- ?tag returns through the overhand from the same side it exited
Then
- →Retie. unstable loop size or sudden terminal failure.
Too few wraps on light line
Check
- ?The loop walks down and becomes a noose
- ?Inspect step 03
Then
- →Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
Loop cinched closed while seating
Check
- ?Free-swing is gone and the noose can cut
- ?Inspect step 04
Then
- →Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
Tag missed the overhand
Check
- ?This is a slip loop, not a non-slip
- ?Inspect step 02
Then
- →Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
Same failure class, different geometry. Open the plates — Diagnose still starts from the symptom.
Get it right with everything in your favour0/5 clean
Good light, dry hands, a table. Until the sequence is automatic here there is nothing for the harder rungs to test — you would only be learning that difficult conditions are difficult, which you already knew.
How · Tie it, check it against the list, log it. Five clean and the ladder opens.
Nothing marked. Log it clean, or mark what happened first.
Not ideal for
- ×Maximum slim fixed eye connections
- ×Maximum slim fixed-eye terminals — this loop is extra bulk
Strength, and where the number comes from
Not established
No published test; NetKnots reports only the qualitative finding that non-slip loop knots as a family 'fail in fluorocarbon well below the line's rated strength', which is a direction, not a figure.
Percentages come from published tests on their own line, their own knot-tyer and their own pull rate. Yours is a different system. Treat a figure as a reason to test, not as a result you already have.
- Animated Knots — Non-Slip Mono Loop
- FishingKnots.com Knot Strength Database
Recovered from this record’s historical modelSourceId registry.
Record reviewed 2026-08-09
Vetted references
- Non-Slip Mono Knot — Animated Knots
Animated Knots by Grog
- How to tie a Non-Slip Loop Knot
Fishing with Nat
Related knots
Check the finished knot against what correct looks like before you load it.