Cat's Paw

Tying procedure — Cat's Paw

1. Two finished loops, each already locked.

   Step 01 / 4

   Tie a short Bimini twist in the main line to make a doubled loop, and have the wind-on leader ready with its own loop at the end.

   You should now see: Two strands of main line running from the Bimini wraps to a closed loop, and a leader loop, with neither loop twisted.

   If it goes wrong: Starting from a single strand, or from a Bimini whose wraps have slipped. Count the strands running into the loop: one strand means there is no double to connect to.

   Fix: Tie a Bimini twist, or retie one that has slipped, before you join the leader.

   Why: The cat's paw only joins two loops. How much load the join can take is set by the double line and the leader loop behind it.

   If wrong: Built on a single strand rather than a double — The connection is limited by one strand of main line.

2. Pass one loop through the other — a handshake.

   Step 02 / 4

   Push the Bimini loop through the leader loop, then pass the free end of the wind-on leader through the Bimini loop and draw it all the way through. Repeat until you have made five passes.

   You should now see: Five turns lying side by side where the two loops meet, with the whole leader drawn clear through after the last pass.

   If it goes wrong: Losing count, or stopping after one pass, which leaves a plain girth hitch with a single turn where the loops meet. Count the turns before you cinch.

   Fix: Back the leader out through the Bimini loop until the turns lie flat, then make the passes again, counting each one out loud.

   Why: Each pass adds a turn where the loops bear on each other, spreading the load over more line. Published counts run from three passes to five; a single pass is a plain girth hitch.

   If wrong: Fewer than five passes — a girth hitch — Load lands on one crossing and saws the loop apart.

3. Do not girth-hitch. Neither loop cinches the other.

   Step 03 / 4

   Pull the double line and the leader apart slowly and steadily, easing the turns down until they close into a short, even collar.

   You should now see: A compact, small-diameter joint where the turns lie tight and parallel, with no turn crossing another.

   If it goes wrong: Snatching the lines apart. The turns jump over each other and the joint closes lumpy, with one turn sitting on top of the rest.

   Fix: Slack off, open the loops until the turns can move, lay them side by side and cinch again slowly. If they still will not lie tight together, whip the two lines together.

   Why: Slow, steady tension lets each turn slide into place beside the last one, so all the turns share the load instead of one carrying most of it.

   If wrong: Turns riding over each other instead of nesting — The advantage of spreading the load is lost.

4. Pull both standing parts. The join should look like two links.

   Step 04 / 4

   Turn the joint over and look at both sides, checking that the turns match on each side and neither loop has slipped over the other before you draw it through the rod guides.

   You should now see: A symmetrical collar with the same turns showing on both sides, which slides through the tip guide without catching when you draw it through by hand.

   If it goes wrong: One loop riding over the other, so the collar sits lopsided with one side fatter than the other and catches on the tip guide.

   Fix: Loosen the joint, work the loops square so the turns match on both sides, then cinch it again slowly. Nothing needs cutting.

   If wrong: Collar lopsided, one loop riding over the other — Uneven bearing and a connection that snags at the tip guide.