Bobber Stop Knot
A short uni-style coil of scrap line gripping the main line to stop a slip float at a set depth. It carries no fish load — the only things that matter are that it holds against the float, still slides by hand, and leaves the main line unmarked.
Beginner · Monofilament / Fluorocarbon / Braid / Backing
Connection card
Bobber Stop Knot
For stop on the line (float / bead).
This card does not say how strong the knot is. A retention figure comes from a bench, in one material, at one diameter, tied by somebody who ties it all day — and the line in your hand is none of those. What it does tell you is whether the thing you have just tied is the thing the record describes.
What this plate is telling you
A short uni-style coil of scrap line gripping the main line to stop a slip float at a set depth. It carries no fish load — the only things that matter are that it holds against the float, still slides by hand, and leaves the main line unmarked.
Save this as a picture and it works with a dead signal and a nearly dead battery, which is when a joint is most often tied badly. The rest of this page — the steps, the seating sequence, the failure modes and the bench — is for the evening before.
Before you start
- ·Tie the stop on first, then thread the bead and float on from the hook end so they sit below it.
- ·Use about 6 inches of line the same diameter as the main line, or Dacron backing. On braided main line, Cast and Spear suggests Dacron or braid.
- ·Trim the tags to about a quarter inch. The trimmed stop passes through the rod guides, and the stubs give you something to grip if it loosens.
- ·The stop only holds the float in place. Pull it until it grips, not until the main line flattens.
Step 1 of 4 · move 1 of 1. Lay the stopper line along the main line and double it back into a loop
swipe to step
01.1
Lay the stopper line along the main line and double it back into a loop
- Hold:
- Left hand pinches the stopper against the main line at the depth you want
- Move:
- Right hand doubles the stopper back over itself to make a loop
You should now see: A short stopper line lying along the main line, doubled back into an open loop, with its end free.
Lay a 15 cm (6 in) piece of stopper line along the main line where you want the float to stop, and fold one end back along it to make a loop beside the main line.
A loop of stopper line lying against the main line, with the folded-back end crossing over the stopper and the main line at the point you are pinching.
Cutting the stopper piece too short. There is not enough end to take the turns and still grip, and the loop pulls out of your fingers halfway through wrapping.
Fix: Start again with a fresh 15 cm (6 in) piece. The extra length costs nothing, because the tags get trimmed at the end.
Why: Use line about the same diameter as the main line, or Dacron backing. Tie the stop on first: the bead and float then thread on from the hook end and sit below it, and the depth can be changed later by sliding the stop.
arrow keys work
Tying procedure — Bobber Stop Knot
Step 01 / 4
Lay a 15 cm (6 in) piece of stopper line along the main line where you want the float to stop, and fold one end back along it to make a loop beside the main line.
You should now see: A loop of stopper line lying against the main line, with the folded-back end crossing over the stopper and the main line at the point you are pinching.
If it goes wrong: Cutting the stopper piece too short. There is not enough end to take the turns and still grip, and the loop pulls out of your fingers halfway through wrapping.
Fix: Start again with a fresh 15 cm (6 in) piece. The extra length costs nothing, because the tags get trimmed at the end.
Why: Use line about the same diameter as the main line, or Dacron backing. Tie the stop on first: the bead and float then thread on from the hook end and sit below it, and the depth can be changed later by sliding the stop.
1Stopper line, doubled back2Main lineStep 1 of 4 · move 1 of 1
Lay the stopper line along the main line and double it back into a loop
Hold: Left hand pinches the stopper against the main line at the depth you want. Move: Right hand doubles the stopper back over itself to make a loop.
You should now see: A short stopper line lying along the main line, doubled back into an open loop, with its end free.
Step 02 / 4
Pinch the loop where the stopper crosses itself and the main line. Take the end around both lines and through the open loop, and repeat until three or four turns lie side by side.
You should now see: Three or four neat turns around the main line and one leg of the stopper, all inside the loop, with the far end of the loop still open.
If it goes wrong: Too few turns, or turns that ride over each other. The stop looks fine in your hand but creeps along the line over the first few casts, and the float settles at the wrong depth.
Fix: Unwrap the turns and lay them again side by side. If a finished stop creeps, cut it off and tie a new one with an extra turn, especially on slick braid.
Why: The turns are what grip the main line. Sources give anywhere from two to six. More turns hold better on thin or slick line but make a bulkier knot to pass through the guides.
1Three turns round both linesStep 2 of 4 · move 1 of 1
Wrap the stopper round both lines and through the loop, three times
Hold: Left hand holds the loop where the stopper crosses itself and the main line. Move: Right hand winds the stopper's end round both lines inside the loop, three times.
You should now see: Three turns of stopper line round both the main line and the stopper's own line, all inside the loop.
Step 03 / 4
Wet the turns, then pull the two ends of the stopper line slowly in opposite directions until the turns close down and grip the main line.
You should now see: A small, tight barrel of turns that stays put when you nudge it, with the main line still round and straight on both sides.
If it goes wrong: Hauling on the ends as hard as you can. The main line under the stop flattens or kinks, and you can see a curl or flat spot when you slide the stop away.
Fix: If the main line is flattened or kinked, cut above the damaged section and rig again. Pull the next stop only until it grips.
Why: Wetting lets the turns slide into place without heat. The stop only has to hold against the float and bead; pulling past that squeezes the main line and leaves a weak spot right where the stop sits.
Step 3 of 4 · move 1 of 1
Pull both stopper tags in opposite directions to close the turns on the main line
Hold: Left hand pulls the stopper's short tag one way. Move: Right hand pulls the other tag the opposite way until the turns grip the main line.
You should now see: A small, neat barrel of three turns gripping the main line, snug but not crushing it.
Step 04 / 4
Trim both tags to short stubs about 6 mm (a quarter inch) long, then push the stop along the main line with your fingers to set the float depth.
You should now see: Two short stubs standing off the stop. It slides when you push it firmly with your fingers and holds its place when the float rides up against the bead.
If it goes wrong: Cutting the tags flush against the turns. With nothing left to pull on, a stop that loosens cannot be snugged up again, and a loose stop catches on the guides instead of passing through.
Fix: If the stop has loosened or catches on a guide, cut it off and tie a new one, trimming the tags to short stubs this time.
Why: Short stubs give you something to grip if the stop needs tightening again, and a small, trimmed stop passes through the rod guides on the cast.
1Tags left longStep 4 of 4 · move 1 of 1
Trim the tags, leaving each about an inch long, and test that the stop slides
Hold: Left hand holds the main line. Move: Right hand trims each tag long, then slides the stop with firm finger pressure.
You should now see: Two tags about an inch long, and a stop that slides under firm finger pressure but stays put under the float's weight.
Watch the tie
How to Tie a Bobber Stop Knot (and One Extra Tip)Show Me the Hawgs · Opens on YouTubeExternal video from a creator we follow — not produced by us. Nothing on this page loads from YouTube until you follow the link.
Seating sequence — where failures are born
The step list compresses the finish. Run these phases in order, one at a time.
01 Place
Set the stopper against the main line at the depth you want.
None.
02 Wrap
Three turns around both lines, through the loop each time.
None.
03 Snug
Draw it down only until it holds the float's weight.
Light — stop the moment it grips.
04 Test
Slide it by hand and check the main line for a mark.
None.
05 Commit
Only load it after the structure reads correct. Wrong means remake.
Working load, not a snatch.
Finished structure — what correct looks like
Drawn from a rope model of this knot: which strand passes over which comes from where the rope actually lies.
- ·A short gripping coil of stopper line on the main line, two tags standing out
- ·Snug — holds the float, slides under a firm finger
- ·Both tags left roughly an inch long, standing away from the line
- ·Wraps side by side, not stacked
Verify before you load it
Every line is pass or fail. One fail means retie — do not load a knot you argued with.
- 01A short gripping coil of stopper line on the main line, two tags standing out
- 02Snug — holds the float, slides under a firm finger
- 03Both tags left roughly an inch long, standing away from the line
- 04Wraps side by side, not stacked
- 05No wrap riding over another
- 06Wraps drawn down by opposing pull on the two tags
Field notes — dark, cold, gloves
- ·Slide it and check the line every so often. A stop left in one place all day beds a mark into mono.
- ·Tie a few spares onto a scrap of line before you go out; they transfer in seconds.
- ·If it creeps on braid, the answer is another wrap, not a harder pull.
Load direction
Almost nothing. The main line runs straight through and is not gripped by the knot at all; the only force on the stop is the float sliding up and pushing against it. It is the one knot in this catalogue that is not in the load path.
The line under the coil should still be round. If it is flattened, you have built a weak point into the one part of the rig that was never supposed to be holding anything.
Bobber Stop Knot — finished-state checks, on the shared reference layout
When this family fails, it fails as these. The recovered end still outranks the name.
A grip set on the main line to hold a position, carrying no fish load.
- !Too few wraps for a slick line, so it creeps under casting
- !Drawn down hard enough to flatten the main line — a weak point built on purpose
- !Tags trimmed flush, so it jams in a guide and can no longer be slid
- !Too few turns, so the stop creeps along the line over a few casts
- !Pulled down hard enough to flatten or kink the main line under it
- !Tags cut flush, so a stop that loosens cannot be snugged up and catches in a guide
- !Turns laid over each other instead of side by side
Stop creeps along the main line
The bait fishes deeper every cast and you stop knowing where it is
Grip comes from wrap count and stopper material, not from how hard it is pulled. · step 02
Main line deformed under the stop
A weak spot built deliberately into the middle of the main line
A stop pulled past snug crushes mono; the flat spot is where the line will break. · step 03
Tags trimmed flush so the stop jams in a guide
Catches on the cast, and cannot be slid to change depth
The long tags are what let it fold through a guide and what you grip to move it. · step 04
The float creeps deeper over a few casts
Check
- ?Mark the line and watch whether the stop has moved after ten casts
Then
- →Add a wrap
- →Switch to Dacron backing as the stopper material
The stop catches in a guide on the cast or the retrieve
Check
- ?Draw the stop through the tip guide by hand
Then
- →Retie leaving longer tags
- →Re-dress the wraps so they lie side by side
The main line shows a flat spot or a curl where the stop has been sitting
Check
- ?Slide the stop and run the line between your fingers
Then
- →Cut back past the marked section and re-rig
- →Set the next stop snug rather than crushed
Finished check failed — Stopper slides freely
Check
- ?Stopper grips the line without cutting
- ?Position holds after cast pressure
- ?Coils neat and short
Then
- →Retie. A sliding stopper ruins depth control; an over-tight one nicks main line.
Stop creeps along the main line
Check
- ?The bait fishes deeper every cast and you stop knowing where it is
- ?Inspect step 02
Then
- →Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
Main line deformed under the stop
Check
- ?A weak spot built deliberately into the middle of the main line
- ?Inspect step 03
Then
- →Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
Tags trimmed flush so the stop jams in a guide
Check
- ?Catches on the cast, and cannot be slid to change depth
- ?Inspect step 04
Then
- →Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
Get it right with everything in your favour0/5 clean
Good light, dry hands, a table. Until the sequence is automatic here there is nothing for the harder rungs to test — you would only be learning that difficult conditions are difficult, which you already knew.
How · Tie it, check it against the list, log it. Five clean and the ladder opens.
Nothing marked. Log it clean, or mark what happened first.
Not ideal for
- ×Carrying load — it is a position stop, not a connection
- ×Leaving on the line for weeks, where it will bed a mark into mono
- ×Very heavy braid, where a bought rubber stop grips better
Strength, and where the number comes from
Not established
Not a load-bearing knot — what matters is that the gripped main line shows no flat spot — and no publisher states a retention figure for it.
Percentages come from published tests on their own line, their own knot-tyer and their own pull rate. Yours is a different system. Treat a figure as a reason to test, not as a result you already have.
- NetKnots — Bobber Stopper Knot
- Take Me Fishing — How to tie the bobber stopper knot
- NetKnots fishing knot references
Recovered from this record’s historical modelSourceId registry.
Record reviewed 2026-09-01
Vetted references
- Bobber Stopper Knot
NetKnots
- How to Tie a Bobber Stop Knot (and One Extra Tip)
Show Me the Hawgs
Check the finished knot against what correct looks like before you load it.