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Bobber Stop Knot

A short uni-style coil of scrap line gripping the main line to stop a slip float at a set depth. It carries no fish load — the only things that matter are that it holds against the float, still slides by hand, and leaves the main line unmarked.

Beginner · Monofilament / Fluorocarbon / Braid / Backing

Connection card

Bobber Stop Knot

For stop on the line (float / bead).

Bobber Stop Knot — finishedA short gripping coil set at the depth you want, main line unmarked, tags long enough to fold through a guide.
What it joins Stop on the line (float / bead). In monofilament, fluorocarbon, braid, backing.
Turns 3 to 5. Count them before you seat it; afterwards you are guessing.
Shape A short gripping coil of stopper line on the main line, two tags standing out
Tag end Both tags left roughly an inch long, standing away from the line
Seated Snug — holds the float, slides under a firm finger
Start again if Main line deformed under the stop. A weak spot built deliberately into the middle of the main line

This card does not say how strong the knot is. A retention figure comes from a bench, in one material, at one diameter, tied by somebody who ties it all day — and the line in your hand is none of those. What it does tell you is whether the thing you have just tied is the thing the record describes.

What this plate is telling you

A short uni-style coil of scrap line gripping the main line to stop a slip float at a set depth. It carries no fish load — the only things that matter are that it holds against the float, still slides by hand, and leaves the main line unmarked.

Save this as a picture and it works with a dead signal and a nearly dead battery, which is when a joint is most often tied badly. The rest of this page — the steps, the seating sequence, the failure modes and the bench — is for the evening before.

Before you start

  • ·Tie the stop on first, then thread the bead and float on from the hook end so they sit below it.
  • ·Use about 6 inches of line the same diameter as the main line, or Dacron backing. On braided main line, Cast and Spear suggests Dacron or braid.
  • ·Trim the tags to about a quarter inch. The trimmed stop passes through the rod guides, and the stubs give you something to grip if it loosens.
  • ·The stop only holds the float in place. Pull it until it grips, not until the main line flattens.
Line + hardware: About six inches of stopper line — same diameter as the main line, or Dacron backing, Slip float and beadTools: Clippers

Step 1 of 4 · move 1 of 1. Lay the stopper line along the main line and double it back into a loop

How to tie it — Step 1 of 4 · move 1 of 1
Lay the stopper line along the main line and double it back into a loopA short length of stopper line lies along the main line and is doubled back into a loop above it, with its working end hanging free.
1Stopper line, doubled back
2Main line

swipe to step

01.1

Lay the stopper line along the main line and double it back into a loop

Hold:
Left hand pinches the stopper against the main line at the depth you want
Move:
Right hand doubles the stopper back over itself to make a loop

You should now see: A short stopper line lying along the main line, doubled back into an open loop, with its end free.

Written step 01

Lay a 15 cm (6 in) piece of stopper line along the main line where you want the float to stop, and fold one end back along it to make a loop beside the main line.

You should now see

A loop of stopper line lying against the main line, with the folded-back end crossing over the stopper and the main line at the point you are pinching.

If it goes wrong

Cutting the stopper piece too short. There is not enough end to take the turns and still grip, and the loop pulls out of your fingers halfway through wrapping.

Fix: Start again with a fresh 15 cm (6 in) piece. The extra length costs nothing, because the tags get trimmed at the end.

Why: Use line about the same diameter as the main line, or Dacron backing. Tie the stop on first: the bead and float then thread on from the hook end and sit below it, and the depth can be changed later by sliding the stop.

Watch the tie

How to Tie a Bobber Stop Knot (and One Extra Tip)Show Me the Hawgs · Opens on YouTube

External video from a creator we follow — not produced by us. Nothing on this page loads from YouTube until you follow the link.

Seating sequence — where failures are born

The step list compresses the finish. Run these phases in order, one at a time.

  1. 01 Place

    Set the stopper against the main line at the depth you want.

    None.

  2. 02 Wrap

    Three turns around both lines, through the loop each time.

    None.

  3. 03 Snug

    Draw it down only until it holds the float's weight.

    Light — stop the moment it grips.

  4. 04 Test

    Slide it by hand and check the main line for a mark.

    None.

  5. 05 Commit

    Only load it after the structure reads correct. Wrong means remake.

    Working load, not a snatch.

Finished structure — what correct looks like

Bobber Stop Knot, finishedBobber Stop Knot, finished

Drawn from a rope model of this knot: which strand passes over which comes from where the rope actually lies.

  • ·A short gripping coil of stopper line on the main line, two tags standing out
  • ·Snug — holds the float, slides under a firm finger
  • ·Both tags left roughly an inch long, standing away from the line
  • ·Wraps side by side, not stacked

Verify before you load it

Every line is pass or fail. One fail means retie — do not load a knot you argued with.

  • 01A short gripping coil of stopper line on the main line, two tags standing out
  • 02Snug — holds the float, slides under a firm finger
  • 03Both tags left roughly an inch long, standing away from the line
  • 04Wraps side by side, not stacked
  • 05No wrap riding over another
  • 06Wraps drawn down by opposing pull on the two tags
Something failed → open Diagnose

Field notes — dark, cold, gloves

  • ·Slide it and check the line every so often. A stop left in one place all day beds a mark into mono.
  • ·Tie a few spares onto a scrap of line before you go out; they transfer in seconds.
  • ·If it creeps on braid, the answer is another wrap, not a harder pull.

Load direction

Almost nothing. The main line runs straight through and is not gripped by the knot at all; the only force on the stop is the float sliding up and pushing against it. It is the one knot in this catalogue that is not in the load path.

Bobber Stop Knot — how load travels through the finished knotAlmost nothing. The main line runs straight through and is not gripped by the knot at all; the only force on the stop is the float sliding up and pushing against it. It is the one knot in this catalogue that is not in the load path.

The line under the coil should still be round. If it is flattened, you have built a weak point into the one part of the rig that was never supposed to be holding anything.

HTH · Reference layout

Bobber Stop Knot — finished-state checks, on the shared reference layout

Bobber Stop Knot — finished-state checks, on the shared reference layout
Hook the Horizon reference plate
Failure modes

When this family fails, it fails as these. The recovered end still outranks the name.

Line-stop family

A grip set on the main line to hold a position, carrying no fish load.

  • !Too few wraps for a slick line, so it creeps under casting
  • !Drawn down hard enough to flatten the main line — a weak point built on purpose
  • !Tags trimmed flush, so it jams in a guide and can no longer be slid
Fails when
  • !Too few turns, so the stop creeps along the line over a few casts
  • !Pulled down hard enough to flatten or kink the main line under it
  • !Tags cut flush, so a stop that loosens cannot be snugged up and catches in a guide
  • !Turns laid over each other instead of side by side
Geometry
  • Stop creeps along the main line

    The bait fishes deeper every cast and you stop knowing where it is

    Grip comes from wrap count and stopper material, not from how hard it is pulled. · step 02

  • Main line deformed under the stop

    A weak spot built deliberately into the middle of the main line

    A stop pulled past snug crushes mono; the flat spot is where the line will break. · step 03

  • Tags trimmed flush so the stop jams in a guide

    Catches on the cast, and cannot be slid to change depth

    The long tags are what let it fold through a guide and what you grip to move it. · step 04

If you saw this
  • The float creeps deeper over a few casts

    Check

    • ?Mark the line and watch whether the stop has moved after ten casts

    Then

    • Add a wrap
    • Switch to Dacron backing as the stopper material
  • The stop catches in a guide on the cast or the retrieve

    Check

    • ?Draw the stop through the tip guide by hand

    Then

    • Retie leaving longer tags
    • Re-dress the wraps so they lie side by side
  • The main line shows a flat spot or a curl where the stop has been sitting

    Check

    • ?Slide the stop and run the line between your fingers

    Then

    • Cut back past the marked section and re-rig
    • Set the next stop snug rather than crushed
  • Finished check failed — Stopper slides freely

    Check

    • ?Stopper grips the line without cutting
    • ?Position holds after cast pressure
    • ?Coils neat and short

    Then

    • Retie. A sliding stopper ruins depth control; an over-tight one nicks main line.
  • Stop creeps along the main line

    Check

    • ?The bait fishes deeper every cast and you stop knowing where it is
    • ?Inspect step 02

    Then

    • Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
  • Main line deformed under the stop

    Check

    • ?A weak spot built deliberately into the middle of the main line
    • ?Inspect step 03

    Then

    • Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
  • Tags trimmed flush so the stop jams in a guide

    Check

    • ?Catches on the cast, and cannot be slid to change depth
    • ?Inspect step 04

    Then

    • Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
This failed — start Diagnose
The bench · rep 1

Get it right with everything in your favour0/5 clean

Good light, dry hands, a table. Until the sequence is automatic here there is nothing for the harder rungs to test — you would only be learning that difficult conditions are difficult, which you already knew.

How · Tie it, check it against the list, log it. Five clean and the ladder opens.

Conditions for this rep
What went wrong, if anything

Nothing marked. Log it clean, or mark what happened first.

Not ideal for

  • ×Carrying load — it is a position stop, not a connection
  • ×Leaving on the line for weeks, where it will bed a mark into mono
  • ×Very heavy braid, where a bought rubber stop grips better

Strength, and where the number comes from

Not established

Not a load-bearing knot — what matters is that the gripped main line shows no flat spot — and no publisher states a retention figure for it.

Percentages come from published tests on their own line, their own knot-tyer and their own pull rate. Yours is a different system. Treat a figure as a reason to test, not as a result you already have.

Sources for this record

Record reviewed 2026-09-01

Already tied it?

Check the finished knot against what correct looks like before you load it.