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Tie

Rolling Hitch

Directional grip hitch for snubbers. Slides first, breaks second.

Intermediate · Polyester / Nylon rope / Polypropylene / Natural fibre

Connection card

Rolling Hitch

For load transfer / snubber.

What it joins Load transfer / snubber. In polyester, nylon rope, polypropylene, natural fibre.
Turns 3 to 4. Count them before you seat it; afterwards you are guessing.
Shape Two turns on the load side of the standing part, third turn crossing, tail tucked under the last turn
Tag end Tail tucked under the last turn so the hitch is directional
Seated Dressed toward the load, then slide-tested before you trust it
Start again if Turns on the wrong side of the load. Hitch will not grip and slides off

This card does not say how strong the knot is. A retention figure comes from a bench, in one material, at one diameter, tied by somebody who ties it all day — and the line in your hand is none of those. What it does tell you is whether the thing you have just tied is the thing the record describes.

What this plate is telling you

Directional grip hitch for snubbers. Slides first, breaks second.

Save this as a picture and it works with a dead signal and a nearly dead battery, which is when a joint is most often tied badly. The rest of this page — the steps, the seating sequence, the failure modes and the bench — is for the evening before.

Before you start

  • ·Work out which way the load will pull along the spar or rope before tying. The two riding turns go on that side, and the hitch grips a pull in that direction only.
  • ·It grips three-strand nylon and polyester double-braid well. It will not hold on slick rope such as Dyneema or Spectra, so use a different attachment there.
  • ·It holds better on a rope of similar or larger diameter than the hitching line than on a much thinner one. Wet or icy rope grips less.
  • ·Leave several inches of working end so the turns cannot shed it as they settle.
Line + hardware: Working rope, A loaded rope or spar to grip

Step 1 of 4. Decide which way the load will pull along the spar or loaded rope. Wrap the working end around it twice on that side, each turn crossing over its own standing part, so the two turns sit together.

How to tie it — step 1 / 4

No drawing of this exact knot yet. The written steps are the reference.

swipe to step

01

Decide which way the load will pull along the spar or loaded rope. Wrap the working end around it twice on that side, each turn crossing over its own standing part, so the two turns sit together.

You should now see

Two riding turns lying side by side on the spar, both crossed by the standing part and both on the side the load will pull toward.

If it goes wrong

Putting the two turns on the side away from the pull. It looks the same, but when the load comes on the hitch slides along the spar instead of gripping.

Fix: Unwrap it and start again with the turns on the other side of the standing part, pointing toward where the load will travel.

Why: The riding turns do the gripping. The standing part lies across them and presses them down, but only when the pull runs toward their side and nearly along the spar.

What fails if this is wrong
  • Turns on the wrong side of the loadHitch will not grip and slides off. Both first turns must sit on the load side.

Watch the tie

Learn How To Tie A Rolling Hitch KnotWhyKnot · Opens on YouTube

External video from a creator we follow — not produced by us. Nothing on this page loads from YouTube until you follow the link.

Seating sequence — where failures are born

The step list compresses the finish. Run these phases in order, one at a time.

  1. 01 Form

    Build the structure loose enough to see every turn.

    None. Shape first.

  2. 02 Dress

    Nest every turn. Crossed parts will walk or jam.

    Light — hold the shape.

  3. 03 Set

    Load the standing part so the intended turns take the strain.

    Working load, not a snatch.

  4. 04 Check

    Confirm the lock still breaks or inspects as the job requires.

    None extra.

  5. 05 Commit

    Only load it after the structure reads correct. Wrong means remake.

    Working load, not a snatch.

Finished structure — what correct looks like

No drawing of this exact knot yet. The written steps are the reference.

  • ·Two turns on the load side of the standing part, third turn crossing, tail tucked under the last turn
  • ·Dressed toward the load, then slide-tested before you trust it
  • ·Tail tucked under the last turn so the hitch is directional
  • ·Two load-side turns plus the crossing third — a clove here is the wrong hitch

Verify before you load it

Every line is pass or fail. One fail means retie — do not load a knot you argued with.

  • 01Two turns on the load side of the standing part, third turn crossing, tail tucked under the last turn
  • 02Dressed toward the load, then slide-tested before you trust it
  • 03Tail tucked under the last turn so the hitch is directional
  • 04Two load-side turns plus the crossing third — a clove here is the wrong hitch
  • 05Turns on the wrong side of the load will not grip
  • 06Holds a slide-test. If it walks, add a turn or change hitch
Something failed → open Diagnose

Field notes — dark, cold, gloves

  • ·Dress is the lock. A pretty knot that is not dressed is not finished.
  • ·HMPE usually wants a splice, not a hitch you learned in polyester.
  • ·If you cannot break or inspect it under the load you expect, it is the wrong job.
Failure modes

When this family fails, it fails as these. The recovered end still outranks the name.

Grip-hitch family

Directional bite on a standing part — slide-test before you trust it.

  • !Turns on the wrong side of the load
  • !Failed slide-test, still used
  • !A clove where a rolling or icicle third turn was the job
Fails when
  • !The riding turns are on the side away from the pull, so the hitch walks along the rope without gripping
  • !The turns were not pushed hard together before loading, so it creeps a little at a time
  • !The spar or loaded rope is slick, such as Dyneema or Spectra
  • !The pull comes off at an angle instead of along the spar, dragging the turns out of shape
Geometry
  • Turns on the wrong side of the load

    Hitch will not grip and slides off

    Both first turns must sit on the load side · step 01

  • Clove instead of rolling third turn

    Wrong hitch — walks under along-line pull

    The third turn is what makes it a rolling hitch · step 02

  • Failed slide-test, still used

    Snubber walks and dumps the load back on the windlass

    If it walks on the test, do not trust it · step 04

If you saw this
  • Hitch slides down the standing part

    Check

    • ?Two load-side turns
    • ?Pull along the standing part

    Then

    • Add a turn
    • Do not use on HMPE without a different plan
  • Turns on the wrong side of the load

    Check

    • ?Hitch will not grip and slides off
    • ?Inspect step 01

    Then

    • Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
  • Clove instead of rolling third turn

    Check

    • ?Wrong hitch — walks under along-line pull
    • ?Inspect step 02

    Then

    • Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
  • Failed slide-test, still used

    Check

    • ?Snubber walks and dumps the load back on the windlass
    • ?Inspect step 04

    Then

    • Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
Same family

Same failure class, different geometry. Open the plates — Diagnose still starts from the symptom.

This failed — start Diagnose
The bench · rep 1

Get it right with everything in your favour0/5 clean

Good light, dry hands, a table. Until the sequence is automatic here there is nothing for the harder rungs to test — you would only be learning that difficult conditions are difficult, which you already knew.

How · Tie it, check it against the list, log it. Five clean and the ladder opens.

Conditions for this rep
What went wrong, if anything

Nothing marked. Log it clean, or mark what happened first.

Not ideal for

  • ×Slick HMPE standing part
  • ×A hitch that must hold both ways equally

Strength, and where the number comes from

Not established

A grip hitch that fails by sliding rather than by breaking, and no published test states a rope-break percentage for it — the '50–70%' it used to carry has no source.

Percentages come from published tests on their own line, their own knot-tyer and their own pull rate. Yours is a different system. Treat a figure as a reason to test, not as a result you already have.

Sources for this record

Record reviewed 2026-08-14

Vetted references

Already tied it?

Check the finished knot against what correct looks like before you load it.