Carrick Bend

Tying procedure — Carrick Bend

1. Step 01 / 4

   Form a loop near the end of the first rope with its working end crossing under the standing part, and lay the loop flat so the crossing is easy to see.

   You should now see: A flat loop with the working end passing beneath the standing part at the crossing, and the two parts leading away from the same side of the loop.

   If it goes wrong: Crossing the working end over the standing part, which starts the weave the wrong way round. Another is reaching for this bend in small, soft line when its main use is heavy rope and hawsers.

   Fix: Re-lay the loop with the working end under the standing part. For small line, a Zeppelin bend or a sheet bend is quicker to tie and to check.

   Why: In a true carrick bend every crossing alternates over and under. Starting with the working end under its standing part sets the pattern that the second rope follows in steps 2 and 3.

   Step 1 of 4 · move 1 of 1

   Form a loop in the first rope with its working end crossing under the standing part

   Hold: Left hand holds the crossing flat on the deck

   Move: Right hand lays the loop open so both parts lead off to the left

   You should now see: A flat loop with the working end passing beneath the standing part, both parts leading away to the left.

2. Step 02 / 4

   Lay the loop on top of the second rope's working end, then take that end over the first rope's standing part and under the first rope's working end.

   You should now see: The second rope's working end runs under the loop, over one arm of the first rope and under the other, so each crossing along its path alternates.

   If it goes wrong: Two overs or two unders in a row where the second rope crosses the first. Run a finger along the second working end and say over or under at each crossing; a repeat means the weave is broken.

   Fix: Back the working end out to the last crossing that alternated correctly and weave on from there: under the loop, over the standing part, under the working end.

   Why: NetKnots gives the whole path of the second rope as under the loop, then over, under, over, under, over. This step makes the first three of those crossings.

   Step 2 of 4 · move 1 of 2

   Lay the loop on top of the second rope's working end

   Hold: Left hand keeps the loop flat

   Move: Right hand slides the second rope's end under both sides of the loop, right to left

3. Step 2 of 4 · move 2 of 2

   Take the end over the first rope's standing part, then under its working end

   Hold: Left hand holds the loop and the second rope where it passes under

   Move: Right hand carries the end over the standing part and down under the working end

   You should now see: Running along the second rope's end: under, under the loop, then over the standing part and under the working end.

4. Step 03 / 4

   Take the second rope's working end back across the loop: over the first rope, under its own standing part, then over the first rope again.

   You should now see: A flat, symmetrical lattice of eight crossings that all alternate, with the two working ends leaving on diagonally opposite sides.

   If it goes wrong: Going over its own standing part instead of under, which leaves both tails on the same side. Animated Knots warns that this version can work loose under an on-and-off pull.

   Fix: Pull the working end back to the edge of the loop and repeat the tuck, going under its own standing part, so the tails end up diagonally opposite.

   Why: Wikipedia notes that the form with the ends diagonally opposed is considered more secure than the one with both ends on the same side.

   Step 3 of 4 · move 1 of 2

   Bring the end back across: over the first rope, then under its own standing part

   Hold: Left hand holds the lattice flat so nothing flips

   Move: Right hand takes the end right, over the first rope and under its own standing part

5. Step 3 of 4 · move 2 of 2

   Finish over the first rope, so the two tails leave diagonally opposite

   Hold: Left hand holds the woven lattice

   Move: Right hand draws the end out over the first rope toward the upper right

   You should now see: A flat, symmetrical lattice of eight alternating crossings, one tail leaving lower left and the other upper right.

6. Step 04 / 4

   Pull both standing parts slowly in opposite directions, leaving tails of at least 10 to 20 cm (4 to 8 in). In heavy rope that will stay loaded, seize each tail to its own standing part.

   You should now see: Unseized, the knot rolls into a smaller, bulkier shape as it tightens, which is normal. Seized, it stays flat with both tails bound along their standing parts.

   If it goes wrong: Leaving a hawser unseized when it needs to stay flat, or seizing only one tail. Wikipedia warns that if both ends are not secured to their standing parts, a seized carrick bend will slip.

   Fix: Add a seizing to the second tail so both are bound. If an unseized knot has rolled over, check it is tight and both tails are still long before loading it again.

   Why: Rolling over, or capsizing, is how an unseized carrick bend sets. Wikipedia describes the capsized form as secure and stable, and the knot as not jamming even after heavy loading or soaking.

   Step 4 of 4 · move 1 of 1

   Pull both standing parts slowly apart, leaving tails of 10 to 20 cm (4 to 8 in)

   Hold: Left hand pulls the first rope's standing part to the left

   Move: Right hand pulls the second rope's standing part to the right, evenly

   You should now see: Unseized, the bend rolls into a smaller, bulkier shape as it sets, which is normal; seize each tail to its own standing part to keep it flat.