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Diagram

Carrick Bend

Sailor's breastplate

Joining two heavy ropes or hawsers with a bend that stays easy to undo after it has been loaded.

Bend · Intermediate · Polyester / Nylon rope / Polypropylene / Natural fibre · 4 steps

ApplicationsHow to tie it
Carrick Bend, finishedCarrick Bend, finished

Finished structure

Drawn from a rope model of this knot: which strand passes over which comes from where the rope actually lies.

  1. Form a loop in the first rope with its working end crossing under the standing partThe first rope lies in a flat loop on the right, its working end crossing under its standing part, both leading off to the left; the second rope lies clear below.
    Move 1 of 1Form a loop in the first rope with its working end crossing under the standing partYou should now see: A flat loop with the working end passing beneath the standing part, both parts leading away to the left.

    Step 01

    Form a loop near the end of the first rope with its working end crossing under the standing part, and lay the loop flat so the crossing is easy to see.

    You should now see

    A flat loop with the working end passing beneath the standing part at the crossing, and the two parts leading away from the same side of the loop.

    If it goes wrong

    Crossing the working end over the standing part, which starts the weave the wrong way round. Another is reaching for this bend in small, soft line when its main use is heavy rope and hawsers.

    Fix: Re-lay the loop with the working end under the standing part. For small line, a Zeppelin bend or a sheet bend is quicker to tie and to check.

    Why: In a true carrick bend every crossing alternates over and under. Starting with the working end under its standing part sets the pattern that the second rope follows in steps 2 and 3.

  2. Lay the loop on top of the second rope's working endThe second rope comes in from the lower right and runs beneath both sides of the first rope's loop, its end stopping short of the first rope's standing part.
    Move 1 of 2Lay the loop on top of the second rope's working end
    Take the end over the first rope's standing part, then under its working endThe second rope's end curves round the left of the knot, over the first rope's standing part and then under the first rope's working end.
    Move 2 of 2Take the end over the first rope's standing part, then under its working endYou should now see: Running along the second rope's end: under, under the loop, then over the standing part and under the working end.

    Step 02

    Lay the loop on top of the second rope's working end, then take that end over the first rope's standing part and under the first rope's working end.

    You should now see

    The second rope's working end runs under the loop, over one arm of the first rope and under the other, so each crossing along its path alternates.

    If it goes wrong

    Two overs or two unders in a row where the second rope crosses the first. Run a finger along the second working end and say over or under at each crossing; a repeat means the weave is broken.

    Fix: Back the working end out to the last crossing that alternated correctly and weave on from there: under the loop, over the standing part, under the working end.

    Why: NetKnots gives the whole path of the second rope as under the loop, then over, under, over, under, over. This step makes the first three of those crossings.

  3. Bring the end back across: over the first rope, then under its own standing partThe second rope's end runs back across the middle of the loop, over the first rope, then under the second rope's own standing part.
    Move 1 of 2Bring the end back across: over the first rope, then under its own standing part
    Finish over the first rope, so the two tails leave diagonally oppositeThe finished weave lies flat: eight crossings all alternating over and under, the first rope's tail at lower left, the second rope's tail at upper right.
    Move 2 of 2Finish over the first rope, so the two tails leave diagonally oppositeYou should now see: A flat, symmetrical lattice of eight alternating crossings, one tail leaving lower left and the other upper right.

    Step 03

    Take the second rope's working end back across the loop: over the first rope, under its own standing part, then over the first rope again.

    You should now see

    A flat, symmetrical lattice of eight crossings that all alternate, with the two working ends leaving on diagonally opposite sides.

    If it goes wrong

    Going over its own standing part instead of under, which leaves both tails on the same side. Animated Knots warns that this version can work loose under an on-and-off pull.

    Fix: Pull the working end back to the edge of the loop and repeat the tuck, going under its own standing part, so the tails end up diagonally opposite.

    Why: Wikipedia notes that the form with the ends diagonally opposed is considered more secure than the one with both ends on the same side.

  4. Pull both standing parts slowly apart, leaving tails of 10 to 20 cm (4 to 8 in)The bend drawn up: the same alternating weave closed in, standing parts leading off left and right, tails diagonally opposite and ready to seize.
    Move 1 of 1Pull both standing parts slowly apart, leaving tails of 10 to 20 cm (4 to 8 in)You should now see: Unseized, the bend rolls into a smaller, bulkier shape as it sets, which is normal; seize each tail to its own standing part to keep it flat.

    Step 04

    Pull both standing parts slowly in opposite directions, leaving tails of at least 10 to 20 cm (4 to 8 in). In heavy rope that will stay loaded, seize each tail to its own standing part.

    You should now see

    Unseized, the knot rolls into a smaller, bulkier shape as it tightens, which is normal. Seized, it stays flat with both tails bound along their standing parts.

    If it goes wrong

    Leaving a hawser unseized when it needs to stay flat, or seizing only one tail. Wikipedia warns that if both ends are not secured to their standing parts, a seized carrick bend will slip.

    Fix: Add a seizing to the second tail so both are bound. If an unseized knot has rolled over, check it is tight and both tails are still long before loading it again.

    Why: Rolling over, or capsizing, is how an unseized carrick bend sets. Wikipedia describes the capsized form as secure and stable, and the knot as not jamming even after heavy loading or soaking.

Failure modes

When this family fails, it fails as these. The recovered end still outranks the name.

Interlocking-bend family

Two interlocking overhands or a Carrick lattice — tails on the documented sides.

  • !Tails on the wrong sides of the bend
  • !Broken lattice or a reef-knot form in disguise
  • !Undressed so one overhand takes the whole load
Fails when
  • !Both tails leave on the same side of the knot. Animated Knots warns this form can work loose under an on-and-off pull.
  • !Only one tail is seized to its standing part. Wikipedia warns a seized carrick bend slips unless both ends are secured.
  • !The weave has two overs or two unders in a row, so it is not a true carrick bend
Geometry

  • Broken over-under lattice

    Capsizes into a tangle under load

    The weave is the bend — count the overs · step 02

  • Unseized standing hawser

    Tails walk and the lattice opens

    Animated Knots: seize the tails on a standing job · step 04

  • Used on small soft line

    Overbuilt, hard to dress, wrong job

    Small soft line wants a Zeppelin or sheet bend · step 01

If you saw this

  • Bend capsizes into a tangle or walks

    Check

    • ?Alternating over-under
    • ?Tails seized if standing

    Then

    • →Retie the lattice
    • →Seize the tails
    • →Use Zeppelin on small line

  • Broken over-under lattice

    Check

    • ?Capsizes into a tangle under load
    • ?Inspect step 02

    Then

    • →Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.

  • Unseized standing hawser

    Check

    • ?Tails walk and the lattice opens
    • ?Inspect step 04

    Then

    • →Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.

  • Used on small soft line

    Check

    • ?Overbuilt, hard to dress, wrong job
    • ?Inspect step 01

    Then

    • →Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
Same family

Same failure class, different geometry. Open the plates — Diagnose still starts from the symptom.

This failed — start Diagnose

Why this knot

What it earns its place with, what it costs, and what to reach for instead.

Best for
Joining rope
Not ideal for
  • Small soft line (Zeppelin or sheet bend is faster)
  • Left unseized on a standing hawser
Common mistakes
  • Starting the loop with the working end over its standing part, which sets the weave the wrong way round
  • Two overs or two unders in a row where the second rope crosses the first
  • Taking the second working end over its own standing part instead of under, so both tails leave on the same side
  • Seizing only one tail on a hawser that has to stay flat
Alternatives
  • Zeppelin BendIntermediate

    Joining two ropes of similar size where the join has to hold a heavy load and still untie afterwards, once the load is off

  • Sheet BendBeginner

    Join two ropes of unequal or similar diameter

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