Figure-8 Stopper
Figure eight stopper · Flemish stopper
Stopper in the end so the rope cannot pull through a block or fairlead. Not a working knot.
Stopper · Beginner · Polyester / Nylon rope / Polypropylene / Natural fibre / Dyneema / HMPE · 4 steps
ApplicationsHow to tie itFinished structure
Drawn from a rope model of this knot: which strand passes over which comes from where the rope actually lies.
- 1Small loop2Standing part
Move 1 of 1Lay the tail over the standing part to make a small loopYou should now see: A small loop near the end of the rope, with the tail crossing on top of the standing part. Step 01
Make a loop near the end of the line with the working end crossing over the standing part, then take the working end around behind the standing part.
You should now seeA loop with the working end lying over the standing part and then wrapped around behind it, pointing back toward the loop.
If it goes wrongSkipping the pass behind the standing part and going straight through the loop. That makes an overhand knot, which is smaller and can jam hard.
Fix: Pull the end back out and take it around behind the standing part before it goes anywhere near the loop.
Why: The wrap behind the standing part is the difference between an eight and an overhand. Animated Knots notes the eight does not bind as badly after being pulled hard against something, so it is easier to untie.
- 1Behind the standing part
Move 1 of 2Take the tail round the outside of the loop and behind the standing part 1Down through the loopMove 2 of 2Bring the tail down through the small loop from the frontYou should now see: A loose figure-eight: the tail round behind the standing part and down through the small loop. Step 02
Bring the working end back over the front and down through the loop, then pull the tail and the standing part just enough to close it loosely.
You should now seeA loose knot that clearly shows the figure-eight shape, with the tail coming out through the loop.
If it goes wrongYanking the tail tight straight away. A wrong pass gets locked in before you can see it, and the knot comes out as a lump instead of a clear eight.
Fix: Loosen it while it is still soft, trace its path against an eight, and correct the pass before setting it.
Why: A loosely closed knot shows its shape. A mistake is easier to spot now than after the stopper has been pulled against a block.
Move 1 of 1Pull the tail and the standing part to draw the eight up compactYou should now see: A compact figure-eight with no loose loops, bigger than the block or fairlead it has to stop at. Step 03
Pull the standing part and tail together to set the knot, working the crossings flat, and hold it against the block or fairlead it has to stop at.
You should now seeA compact eight with flat crossings, clearly larger than the opening in the block or fairlead.
If it goes wrongA stopper too small for the opening, or set so loosely it can squeeze through. If it starts to enter the hole when you press it in, it will pull through under load.
Fix: Untie it and use a larger stopper knot for that fitting. In thin line, a figure-eight can be too small for a large fairlead.
Why: The knot only works if it is bigger than the hole once it is set. Working the crossings flat keeps it compact but does not make it bigger, so size comes from the line diameter and the knot you choose.
Move 1 of 1Leave a short tail beyond the knotYou should now see: A compact figure-eight with a short tail, sitting where it stops the rope at the block. Step 04
Leave a tail at least a hand's length beyond the knot, and use the knot only to stop the line running out through the fitting.
You should now seeA set eight at the end of the line with a tail about a hand's length or more, sitting where it will meet the block.
If it goes wrongTrimming the tail short, or using a stopper to hold two ropes together. A short tail can let the knot capsize or shake out on a flogging line.
Fix: Retie with more tail. To join two ropes, use a bend made for it, such as a sheet bend.
Why: A stopper is shaped to jam against a fitting, not to carry load between two ropes. A tail much longer than needed only leaves loose rope flapping.
When this family fails, it fails as these. The recovered end still outranks the name.
Bulk at the tail, larger than the opening — not a join.
- !Body smaller than the block or fairlead after dress
- !Asked to join two ropes
- !Figure-8 used in HMPE where Estar extra turns were the stopper, or Ashley left as a two-lobe overhand
- !The set knot is smaller than the opening in the block or fairlead, so it pulls through under load
- !It is set loosely enough to squeeze into the opening
- !The tail is shorter than a hand's length, so the knot capsizes or shakes out on a flogging line
- !It is left unchecked on a working line. Animated Knots notes a figure-eight can occasionally come undone.
Overhand instead of a figure-eight
Jammier stopper, harder to inspect
The eight is the hitch · step 01
Undersized or loose eight
Pulls through the block
Size after dress is the job · step 03
Asked to join two ropes
A stopper is not a bend
Pick a sheet bend or Zeppelin if you needed a join · step 04
Stopper pulls through the block
Check
- ?Compact eight larger than the opening
Then
- →Retie larger
- →Do not substitute an unfinished overhand on a running sheet
Overhand instead of a figure-eight
Check
- ?Jammier stopper, harder to inspect
- ?Inspect step 01
Then
- →Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
Undersized or loose eight
Check
- ?Pulls through the block
- ?Inspect step 03
Then
- →Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
Asked to join two ropes
Check
- ?A stopper is not a bend
- ?Inspect step 04
Then
- →Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
Same failure class, different geometry. Open the plates — Diagnose still starts from the symptom.
Not ideal for
- ×Any load-bearing join
- ×A stopper that must be tiny (use an overhand, knowing it jams harder)