Best knot for a loop in the middle of a rope
A loop tied into a rope without using either end, that can be loaded in any direction without distorting.
Diagram in reviewA drawing of the Alpine Butterfly itself is being made. Until then, follow the written steps.
Ranks first
Alpine Butterfly
Good field fit · 77% · 28 ruled out first
Why it wins
- ·Close call against Bowline on a Bight (Good vs Good) — read the tradeoff before committing
- ·Inspectable mid-line loop that can isolate a damaged section
- ·Both standings and the loop can take load
- ·Strong connection-job fit (96)
Watch for
- !The lifted turn was laid over the other turns but not tucked under them, so it slides straight out as the knot comes off the hand.
- !The turns separated while sliding off the hand and the tuck came out of place, leaving loose coils instead of a knot.
- !It was set on only the loop or only the standing parts, so it sits twisted and can change shape under its first real load.
Also in the running
- 02Bowline on a BightPair of fixed loops when both ends are already occupied74%
Pick Bowline on a Bight instead Alpine Butterfly leads on load behavior (88 vs 76) and connection-job fit (96 vs 90).
What changes the answer
The same question with one condition added. Each row is its own engine run.
- Cold, wet handsHolds
- Low lightHolds
- Must come undone after load→ Bowline on a Bight
- First time tying itHolds
How sure this is
Low confidence: this question states only a few conditions, or the top knot's strength figure isn't traceable to a published test. Add your own conditions in Decide to sharpen it.
28 of 30 modelled connections were ruled out by hard constraints before anything was ranked. A knot that fails a constraint is never scored, however strong it is elsewhere.