Best knot for a loop in the middle of a rope
A loop tied into a rope without using either end, that can be loaded in any direction without distorting.
Ranks first
Alpine Butterfly
Good field fit · 28 ruled out first
Why it wins
- ·Close call against Bowline on a Bight (Good vs Good) — read the tradeoff before committing
- ·Inspectable mid-line loop that can isolate a damaged section
- ·Both standings and the loop can take load
- ·Strong connection-job fit (96)
Watch for
- !The lifted turn was laid over the other turns but not tucked under them, so it slides straight out as the knot comes off the hand.
- !The turns separated while sliding off the hand and the tuck came out of place, leaving loose coils instead of a knot.
- !It was set on only the loop or only the standing parts, so it sits twisted and can change shape under its first real load.
Also in the running
- 02Bowline on a BightPair of fixed loops when both ends are already occupiedGood
Pick Bowline on a Bight instead Alpine Butterfly leads on load behavior (88 vs 76) and connection-job fit (96 vs 90).
What changes the answer
The same question with one condition added. Each row is its own engine run.
- Cold, wet handsHolds
- Low lightHolds
- Must come undone after loadHolds
- First time tying itHolds
How sure this is
Low confidence: this question states only a few conditions, or the top knot's strength figure isn't traceable to a published test. Add your own conditions in Decide to sharpen it.
28 of 30 modelled connections were ruled out by hard constraints before anything was ranked. A knot that fails a constraint is never scored, however strong it is elsewhere.