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Diagram

Bowline

Bowline knot

A fixed loop in the end of a rope, such as a mooring line to a ring or post. It holds under load and unties easily once the load is off. Back up the tail on a line left unattended.

Loop · Beginner · Polyester / Nylon rope / Polypropylene / Natural fibre · 4 steps

ApplicationsHow to tie it
Bowline, finishedBowline, finished

Finished structure

Drawn from a rope model of this knot: which strand passes over which comes from where the rope actually lies.

  1. Make a small loop in the standing part, with the rope toward the end lying on topA small loop is made below the standing part, with the rope that runs on toward the end crossing on top of it.
    1Small loop
    2Standing part
    Move 1 of 2Make a small loop in the standing part, with the rope toward the end lying on top
    Bring the working end up through the small loop from underneathThe working end comes up from below and passes up through the small loop from behind, so the rope below it forms the big loop.
    1Working end, up through the small loop
    2Big loop
    Move 2 of 2Bring the working end up through the small loop from underneathYou should now see: A big loop hanging below the small one, and the working end standing up out of the small loop.

    Step 01

    Make a small loop in the standing part with the rope leading to the working end lying on top, then push the working end up through the loop from underneath.

    You should now see

    A small loop in the standing part with the working end poking up out of it, and a length of rope between them that will become the eye.

    If it goes wrong

    Forming the small loop in the working end instead of the standing part, or with the standing part on top. When you test it, the eye slides smaller instead of holding its size.

    Fix: Shake it out and make the small loop again in the standing part, with the working-end side on top, before going any further.

    Why: The small loop becomes the nip that grips the working end once the eye is loaded. Hook the Horizon notes that a loop made in the working end gives a slip knot that closes under load.

  2. Take the end round behind the standing part and back to the frontAbove the small loop, the working end passes behind the standing part and comes back round to the front, forming a collar.
    1Collar round the standing part
    Move 1 of 1Take the end round behind the standing part and back to the frontYou should now see: The end has gone behind the standing part and come round to the front, making a collar round it.

    Step 02

    Take the working end around behind the standing part, above the small loop.

    You should now see

    The working end wrapped around the back of the standing part and pointing back down toward the small loop.

    If it goes wrong

    Passing the end across the front of the standing part instead of behind it. No collar forms around the standing part, which you can see once the knot is set.

    Fix: Back the end out and take it around behind the standing part, then carry on to the next step.

    Why: The turn behind the standing part becomes the collar. It holds the working end in place against the pull on the eye.

  3. Put the end back down through the small loop, beside where it came upThe working end goes back down through the small loop next to where it came up, and lies inside the big loop.
    1End, inside the big loop
    Move 1 of 1Put the end back down through the small loop, beside where it came upYou should now see: Both sides of the collar through the small loop side by side, and the end lying inside the big loop.

    Step 03

    Bring the working end back down through the small loop, running alongside the strand where it came up.

    You should now see

    The working end lying beside its own strand inside the small loop and finishing inside the eye, with a tail at least a hand's width long.

    If it goes wrong

    Stopping with the end still above the loop, or pulling so much through that only a stub is left. A short tail can work back out when the knot is unloaded and shaken.

    Fix: Feed the end down through the small loop. If the tail is shorter than a hand's width, untie it and start with more rope past the loop.

    Why: Animated Knots warns that an unloaded bowline can readily work its way untied. A long tail, more in slick rope, gives the knot room to shift without the end pulling free.

  4. Hold the end and the big loop's side together, and pull the standing part to dress itPulled tight, the small loop nips both sides of the collar, the collar hugs the standing part, and the end lies inside the big loop.
    1Collar
    2Small loop
    Move 1 of 1Hold the end and the big loop's side together, and pull the standing part to dress itYou should now see: The small loop closed round both sides of the collar, the collar snug round the standing part, and the end inside the big loop.

    Step 04

    Hold the eye in one hand and the standing part in the other and pull to set the knot, working the collar snug on the standing part. Back up the tail on an unattended line.

    You should now see

    A collar hugging the standing part and the small loop closed down on the two strands inside it. The eye keeps its size when you pull on it.

    If it goes wrong

    Setting the knot by tugging only the tail, which leaves the collar loose. A loose collar lets the knot change shape and work open as the load comes and goes.

    Fix: Work the collar down against the standing part by hand, then pull the eye and standing part apart again. For an unattended line, add a stopper knot in the tail.

    Why: Set the bowline firmly before adding any backup. Animated Knots warns that a Yosemite tie-off added before the bowline is tightened can leave a slip knot.

Failure modes

When this family fails, it fails as these. The recovered end still outranks the name.

Bowline family

Fixed eye whose lock is a collar seated on the standing part.

  • !Open collar — the eye capsizes under cyclic load
  • !Cowboy / wrong-direction loop
  • !Tail too short to backup, or a Yosemite finish on an unfinished bowline
Fails when
  • !Left unloaded and shaken, so it works its way untied
  • !Repeated slack and snatch on an unattended line with no backup
  • !Tail shorter than a hand's width, especially in slick rope
  • !Small loop made in the working end, so the eye slides closed
Geometry
  • Cowboy / wrong-direction loop

    Collar sits on the wrong part and can capsize

    The working end must go up through the small loop, around the standing part, and back down · step 01

  • Open collar

    Eye inverts or walks under cyclic load

    An undressed bowline is not finished · step 04

  • Tail left up or too short

    No lock, or no room to backup

    The tail must return down the nipping loop · step 03

If you saw this
  • Loop capsizes or the collar walks

    Check

    • ?Collar tight against the standing part
    • ?Tail long enough

    Then

    • Dress and backup
    • Use a figure-8 loop if you cannot inspect a bowline
  • Cowboy / wrong-direction loop

    Check

    • ?Collar sits on the wrong part and can capsize
    • ?Inspect step 01

    Then

    • Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
  • Open collar

    Check

    • ?Eye inverts or walks under cyclic load
    • ?Inspect step 04

    Then

    • Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
  • Tail left up or too short

    Check

    • ?No lock, or no room to backup
    • ?Inspect step 03

    Then

    • Retie. Do not dress a defective structure and call it seated.
Same family

Same failure class, different geometry. Open the plates — Diagnose still starts from the symptom.

This failed — start Diagnose

Not ideal for

  • ×Life-critical without a backup
  • ×Slick HMPE (use a splice)
  • ×A loop that must never capsize